Under the Chinar Trees: My Wanderings in the Kashmir Valley (Part 3)

A Journey Through Pahalgam’s Living Postcards

October 11, 2022: Our stay in Pahalgam felt like living inside a sprawling landscape painting. We woke to a view that felt as if it had been brushed onto the windowpane: a theater of raw, liquid energy. The river was the master of the scene—a churning torrent of icy, crystal-clear water that surged over massive, prehistoric boulders with a relentless and powerful grace. In the soft light of early morning, the spray from the rapids rose like a delicate veil, creating a fine mist that hung suspended over the banks. Through this translucent haze, the surrounding pine trees appeared as dark, emerald silhouettes emerging from a dream, their needles glistening with the river's breath. The soundtrack to this visual was a deep, resonant roar—a symphony of water hitting stone that was at once humbling in its might and deeply, incredibly peaceful in its rhythm. As we prepared for the day, it felt as though we were venturing from one masterpiece into another, moving deeper into the folds of the mountains to discover valleys that felt like separate worlds altogether.

Picture perfect Pahalgam

Gushing Lidder river

Our first destination today was Aru Valley, located about 12 kilometers upstream from Pahalgam. We started our day early to beat the crowds, and our reward was finding the valley almost entirely to ourselves. There was a profound, untouched stillness to the morning; even the ponies, usually the heartbeat of the valley's activity, had yet to arrive. Stepping out onto the meadows felt like stepping onto a vast, plush carpet. We walked across the soft grass, which was still dewy and resilient underfoot. As far as our eyes could travel, the world was a sprawling canvas of vibrant, emerald green. This serene, bowl-shaped meadow felt like a secret kept by the earth, completely encircled by mist-capped mountains that stood as silent guardians. On the distant horizon, the vibrant floor of the valley met the sky in a jagged line of pines, oaks, and cedars. These ancient forests created a dark, textured fringe against the soft morning light. The landscape was sparsely punctuated by the occasional cluster of grazing livestock that moved like slow, white clouds across the grass. Breathing in the air—crisp, thin, and naturally filtered by the surrounding deodar forests—we explored the quiet trails of this high-altitude haven. Without the chatter of tourists or the bells of the ponies, the only sound was the wind whispering through the trees, making our time in Aru feel like a private audience with the Himalayas.

Where the road ends and peace begins

Lost in the landscape

And it suddenly got overcast!

From the rugged peace of Aru, we moved to the iconic Betaab Valley. Originally known as Hagan Valley, it was renamed after the 1983 Bollywood blockbuster Betaab was filmed here, turning it into a symbol of romance and natural beauty. The valley is a masterpiece of composition. The crystal-clear river cuts through the center, its banks lined with weeping willow trees and poplars. Every angle felt like a deliberate work of art, with stone-paved paths winding through perfectly manicured gardens that felt hidden away from the rest of the world. Some locals tell tales of the "Singing Streams." It is believed that if one sits in total silence by the riverbanks at twilight, the sound of the water cascading over the pebbles mimics the soft humming of a lullaby meant to put the valley to sleep. What makes Betaab truly spectacular is its framing. The valley floor is lush and low, making the surrounding mountains appear even more colossal. While Aru is wild and open, Betaab feels like a sheltered sanctuary. We spent hours simply sitting on the wooden benches, watching the mist dance around the mountain peaks and feeling the cool, pine-scented breeze brush against our faces. It truly felt like walking through a living postcard where time had decided to stand still.

Manicured Betaab valley

Betaab vibes

Crossing the lidder river

Weeping willow

Frozen in time

Fresh air, cold air and endless greens

And the sun sets somewhere over the hills

As the sun began to dip behind the peaks, we returned to the town center for a slow stroll through the local market area. The atmosphere was thick with vibrant mountain culture—the enticing aroma of Kashmiri cuisine, colorful pashmina shawls, and the rhythmic clinking of copperware being engraved. We watched locals in their traditional Pherans gathering for evening tea, their warm smiles a perfect reflection of the valley’s legendary hospitality.