Bhutan: The Land of Thunder Dragon (Part 1)
Phuentsholing: First Glimpses of Bhutan
October 5, 2019: The journey began with the rhythmic clickety-clack of the train, carrying us to New Jalpaiguri (NJP). Stepping onto the platform, the air was thick with the excitement of an adventure about to unfold. Our driver met us promptly, and soon we were on the road, heading straight for Phuentsholing, the vibrant gateway town separating India from the serene Kingdom of Bhutan.
The transition, marked by the ornate Bhutan gate, was immediate and striking. Bhutan greeted us as a clean haven; the contrast was palpable. Phuentsholing itself was a picturesque town, buzzing with life yet maintaining an unexpected sense of order. By afternoon, we checked into the Park Hotel Bhutan. After a relaxing late lunch and a quick refresh, it was time to step out and explore.
Our destination lay just across the road: the majestic Zangtopelri Lhakhang. This striking multi-storied temple, a local landmark, is a replica of Guru Rinpoche’s celestial abode, known as the 'Copper-Coloured Mountain' (Zangto Pelri). Constructed in the 1990s, it's a relatively modern yet profoundly significant structure. Its architecture is magnificent, featuring intricate murals, vibrant statues of various Buddhist deities, and a central image of Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava), who is credited with introducing Buddhism to Bhutan in the 8th century. For the devout, it serves as a powerful place of worship and reflection, a visible symbol of Bhutan's deep-rooted spiritual heritage right at the border. After a peaceful stroll around its perimeter, soaking in the spiritual tranquility, we decided to call it a day, ready for the adventures that lay deeper within the Dragon Kingdom.
Bhutan tales
Ascent to Paro: Rivers, Power, and the Road Ahead
October 6, 2019: The morning dawned bright, setting the stage for our journey deeper into Bhutan. After a hearty breakfast, we met our expert Tour Guide, whose calm professionalism immediately put us at ease. He expertly navigated the immigration process, and soon the formalities were behind us, leaving the road to Paro open. The drive was a visual feast, a dramatic shift from the lower plains to the mountainous interior. The route was punctuated by several breaks—a short stop for quick refreshment and three longer pauses to truly absorb the scenery. Our most significant stop was at the Chukha Hydro Power City.
Chukha District is the commercial and financial engine of Bhutan and witnessing the scale of its development was eye-opening. Our guide explained that Chukha hosts Bhutan’s pioneering mega-project, the Chukha Hydel, built with crucial Indian assistance and commissioned in the late 1980s. Standing near the infrastructure built along the perennial Wang Chhu River, one could appreciate how this project, alongside the newer Tala Project, has powered the nation’s economy, once contributing over 30% of the country’s revenue. The district, largely traversed by the sole road connecting western Bhutan to India, is a hub where Dzongkha and Nepali mingle. Leaving the industrial marvel of Chukha behind, the ascent continued. As the shadows lengthened, we finally arrived in Paro in the evening. Checking into the Hotel Khamsum, our home for the next three nights, felt like reaching a true mountain sanctuary.
October 7, 2019: As dawn broke, the beauty of Paro left us in complete awe. The Paro Valley is a breathtaking tapestry of green fields and terraced hills, cradled by towering Himalayan peaks. The valley’s beauty is defined by the serene Paro Chhu (Paro River), which flows like a ribbon of silver through the center. It's clear, glacial waters meander gracefully, reflecting the sky and the surrounding ancient temples. The landscape is dotted with picturesque, traditionally built farmhouses, while the sight of the mighty Rinpung Dzong standing guard above the river bank firmly roots this natural splendor in Bhutan's rich history.
We dedicated this day to exploring a truly remote corner of the Kingdom. Beginning with an early start, we set off west from Paro for an excursion to the secluded Haa Valley. A short way into our drive, we paused at a higher vantage point that offered a magnificent perspective looking down onto the valley floor. From here, the famously challenging Paro Airport looked surprisingly cute—a tiny sliver of runway nestled among the massive green landscape. Once back on the road, the journey continued, winding past beautiful stretches of cultivated fields, before the true ascent began in earnest, taking us upward toward the formidable Chele-La Pass.
Descending from the pass felt like entering a hidden realm. Haa Valley, historically isolated and closed to general tourism until recently, retained an almost untouched charm. It remains one of Bhutan's least populous districts and is significant for hosting an Indian army base that aids in border security. Our brief tour included the valley's most sacred sites: the Lhakhang Karpo (White Temple) and Lhakhang Nagpo (Black Temple). Local legend attributes the construction of the Karpo temple to divine intervention by local deities, leading to the name Hay (surprises in Dzongkha), which evolved into Haa. The central shrine of the Nagpo temple is particularly significant, said to be an exact replica of the central shrine in Lhasa’s Jowo Temple in Tibet.
The high point of our visit was witnessing the vibrant Haa Tshechu. Tshechus, held annually across Bhutan, are major religious events honoring Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava). The atmosphere was electric, with locals dressed in their finest traditional gho and kira converging on the grounds. The spiritual significance of the Tshechu lies in the sacred masked dances (Chams), performed by monks and lay people. These are not mere performances but moral narratives, believed to bestow blessings, cleanse sins, and teach Buddhist doctrines to the onlookers. We watched, mesmerized, as dancers in magnificent, fearsome masks—representing deities, demons, and animals—moved with deliberate, stylized grace to the booming traditional music. A light drizzle began to fall, but it did nothing to dampen the spirit; the festive crowd merely pulled up their collars, fully engrossed in the spectacle. It was a powerful display of Bhutan’s living cultural history.
We soon returned to Paro, turning our attention to the valley’s most famous structure, Rinpung Dzong. Dominating the landscape from its perch on a steep hill beside the Paro Chhu River, this fortress is arguably Bhutan’s most iconic image, often the first monumental sight for visitors arriving at the airport. Its beauty is unparalleled; the sheer scale of the architecture, with its massive, unbroken, inward-sloping whitewashed walls rising against the sky, speaks volumes of ancient Bhutanese engineering and devotion. The fortress's name translates to the "Fortress on a heap of Jewels." Built in 1644 by the great unifier, Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, on older monastic foundations, it historically defended the valley from Tibetan incursions. Though it remarkably survived a major earthquake in 1897, a severe fire later damaged part of it. The Dzong perfectly embodies the dual nature of Bhutanese governance: the front section houses the District Administration, while the rear courtyard is home to the district’s monk body. Our visit concluded with a walk across the Nemi Zam, a traditional covered bridge, paved with stones alongside the imposing outer walls, offering a perfect perspective of this enduring symbol of Bhutanese heritage.
As we crossed back, it was already evening, and the sight of Rinpung Dzong rising above the river, fully illuminated against the darkening hills, was simply magical; the entire structure dazzled like a jewel set into the valley floor.
Our next stop was the nearby Ta Dzong, which today houses the National Museum of Bhutan. This structure itself is an architectural feat, originally constructed in 1649 as a watchtower to defend Rinpung Dzong. This circular, towering structure, over 22 meters high, now serves as a repository for Bhutan’s rich cultural heritage. Inside, we explored galleries showcasing an exquisite collection of thangkas (religious scroll paintings), ancient bronze statues, ceremonial masks, exquisite postage stamps, and traditional weapons. Each artifact offered a tangible glimpse into Bhutan's history, art, and spiritual evolution. The stunning climb to Taktsang proved more demanding than anticipated. While we had initially planned to visit Kyichu Lhakhang, the sheer exhaustion from the hike prompted us to call it an early day instead.
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