Land of the Dawn-Lit Mountains: A Passage Through Arunachal's Wild Heart (Part 1)

The scent of shiuli flowers and the distant rhythm of the dhak—for Soumitra and me, the arrival of Durga Puja signals more than just the triumph of good over evil. It is the cue for our annual pilgrimage to the mountains. This tradition, fiercely guarded over the years, is our essential escape from the festive city rush, a time to trade the pandal lights for the vast, silent majesty of the high peaks.

This year, the call was different, leading us far east to a landscape that has long held a magnetic pull on our collective wanderlust: Arunachal Pradesh. Known reverently as the 'Land of the Dawn-Lit Mountains', this remote frontier state is nestled at the edge of the Himalayas. For years, the allure of Arunachal Pradesh—its rumored raw beauty, profound tribal heritage, and daunting passes—kept it pinned to the top of our travel dreams. Finally, the dream was unfolding beneath our boots.

Nameri – Where the Wild River Roars

October 18, 2018: Our journey began with a flight from Kolkata to Tezpur, swiftly transitioning into a road trip that would weave us through some of the most breathtaking landscapes in Northeast India. Our first destination was Nameri National Park, a sanctuary of moist deciduous forests bordering Assam. We drove straight from Tezpur and checked into the cozy Nameri Eco Camp tucked inside the forest, a perfect start to disconnect from city life. The afternoon beckoned us with a leisurely stroll through the tea gardens, where endless rows of emerald bushes lay perfectly manicured under the soft afternoon sun, the air thick with the aroma of fresh leaves.

Cascading Jia Bhoroli

From the tea gardens, we followed a trail to the Jia Bhoroli River, a ribbon of pristine, blue, unpolluted water—a truly raw and untouched beauty. The sight of kash phul (Kans grass) blooming profusely along the riverbank served as a natural announcement, signifying the arrival of Durga Puja, even for those far away from Bengal. The river, known for its thrilling rafting experiences on its clear, gentle to moderate rapids, offered an irresistible sight. While it's a paradise for adventure seekers, we opted for a more serene experience. Our eco-camp staff arranged a magnificent bonfire by the riverbank. As the flames danced and the stars emerged, the sound of the flowing water was the only music, a tranquil end to our first day before retiring for the night.

Afternoon stroll by the lush green tea estate

Dirang – A Fairytale of Monasteries and Yaks

October 19, 2018: The morning saw us heading towards the high hills. Our entry into Arunachal Pradesh was marked by a quick formality at the Bhalukpong checkpost—smooth since our permits were pre-arranged online.

Just the road, the horizon, and quiet

En route, we visited the remarkable Tipi Orchid Sanctuary. The Tipi region itself was exceptionally rich in vegetation; orchids and mosses clung to virtually every tree trunk, and the massive tree fern was a common sight. We were particularly excited to spot pitcher plants growing here and there—insectivorous wonders we'd only read about in books, now right before our eyes. This sanctuary, located near the banks of the Kameng River, is one of Asia's largest orchidariums and a must-visit for nature lovers. It’s a dedicated research centre, housing over 50,000 orchids from approximately 425 species. As we walked through the glasshouse and the sprawling grounds, we were mesmerized by the sheer variety—from the rare and endangered to the exotic Dendrobium and Vanda groups. The vibrant, unusual shapes and colours of the blooms were a feast for the eyes.

Tipi Orchid Sanctuary

After lunch, the journey continued to Dirang, a picturesque valley nestled in the West Kameng district. The drive itself was enchanting, passing through mountainous terrain, and the final stretch to our hotel treated us to the sight of lush green Kiwi gardens—a sweet prelude to the wonders Dirang held. We checked into our hotel, anticipating the morning view.

October 20, 2018: We woke up to a truly breathtaking morning. Stepping onto the balcony of our dining hall, the view was simply wonderful. Below lay the expanse of kiwi forest, and in the distance, a meandering river snaked through the valley, framed by towering, oak and pine-covered mountains. It felt, indeed, as if the landscape was plucked just out of a fairytale. A lipsmacking breakfast enjoyed right there in the balcony heightened the moment.

From our balcony

Post-breakfast, our day was dedicated to soaking in the culture and views of Dirang. Our first destination was the Thupsung Dhargey Ling Monastery, or simply the Dirang Monastery. Perched on a hilltop, the Dirang Monastery is one of the most beautiful in the region. Its formal name, Thupsung Dhargey Ling, means 'the place of flourishing of Buddha's speech' and was given by the Dalai Lama. This modern Gompa is a centre for the study of Tibetan Buddhism. The architecture is a sophisticated mix of traditional Tibetan style with intricate, vibrant designs on the pillars and a beautifully ornamented entrance. Rotating the huge prayer wheels on the ground floor—a core part of Buddhist culture—felt deeply spiritual. The panoramic view of the entire Dirang valley from its courtyard was simply breathtaking. We sought out nature's wellness at the local Natural Hot Spring. The spring is significant to the local culture, known for its sulphur-rich water and therapeutic properties, traditionally used for medicinal and spiritual purification. A series of steps leads down to the bathing area with the stunning valley as our backdrop.

We next visited the ancient Kalachakra Gompa, a silent testament to the region's rich spiritual heritage. This small monastery is famous for its elaborate murals, thangkas (Tibetan Buddhist paintings), and unique stucco sculptures. The vibrant colours and detailed artistry depict various Buddhist deities and legends, offering a profound glimpse into the artistic skills of the local Monpa artisans. It felt like stepping into a hidden gallery of spiritual enlightenment.

A short drive from here took us to the National Yak Research and Breeding Center (ICAR-NRC on Yak) in Nigmadung. Established to conserve and develop the indigenous yak germplasm, this center plays a crucial role in supporting the traditional livelihoods of the Himalayan tribes. Located at a high altitude of about 2750m, we could see the robust, shaggy-haired Yaks—a lifeline for the Monpa community—grazing peacefully against the backdrop of snow-dusted mountains.

The drive to Mandala Top took us higher, culminating in a mesmerizing viewpoint, often called the 108 Manes. This unique religious site features 108 Buddhist stupas (chortens) built in perfect concentric circles. Each stupa, inscribed with 'Om Mani Padme Hum', was reportedly contributed by a local family, symbolizing the strong communal bonds of the Monpa people. At an altitude of 10,000 ft, the panoramic vistas of the surrounding snow-capped peaks and the cloud-laden forested area were simply amazing. The air was crisp, and the silence profound.

The afternoon was reserved for Sangti Valley, a short 7 Km drive from Dirang, and it turned out to be the most beautiful place we visited. Tucked away from the main road, Sangti is a hidden gem, a picture-postcard valley of rolling green meadows, surrounded by temperate forests, with the crystal-clear Sangti River flowing through its heart. What made it magical was the tranquility—it felt like we had the entire valley to ourselves. The valley floor is a sprawling, unbroken carpet of lush, rolling green meadows. These vast fields stretch out to the base of the mountains, which rise steeply and are draped in dense, dark conifer forests. This interplay of wide-open green space framed by colossal, forested slopes creates a powerful sense of enclosure and intimacy. The lifeline of the valley is the Sangti River, a ribbon of crystal-clear water that meanders through the heart of the meadows. Its course is lazy and smooth, reflecting the blue sky. Along its banks, the valley is famous for its fruit orchards, particularly kiwi and apple. The air is exceptionally crisp and clean, and the silence is so deep it feels palpable, broken only by the gentle burble of the river. This valley is home to the Monpa tribe, and if visited in winter, it becomes a winter haven for the Black-necked Cranes migrating from China, considered sacred by the locals. Relaxing by the river amidst the lush greenery was pure bliss—a moment of complete peace and unspoiled nature.

We concluded our exploration of this picturesque town with a deep sense of contentment, yet eagerly awaited the next day’s travel, knowing the legendary and challenging road to Tawang lay ahead.