Beneath the Balinese Sun: Part 1

Immersed in Ubud's Heritage and Temples with Deeper History

October 1, 2025: Our arrival in Bali marked the beginning of an exciting journey, with Ubud as our first destination. Landing in the afternoon, we took a cab to Ubud, navigating the famously chaotic traffic of Bali—a challenge that took more time than expected. As we drove from Denpasar to Ubud, we were struck by the unifying architectural style; it wasn't just the ancient structures, but even modern offices, government buildings, and private homes all echoed a similar, distinct aesthetic. Our driver explained that this stems from Bali's strong community living, noting that every house features a temple oriented to the north and east, with daily life beginning with religious rituals and offerings. Everywhere we looked, the pervasive beauty of the frangipani trees only enhanced the island's unique charm. 

 

The signature Balinese aesthetic flows through every house

We checked into Ashoka Tree Resort, where we would spend the next four nights. Nestled amid lush greenery and serene surroundings, the resort offered a peaceful retreat after our long travel. The setting is tranquil, featuring traditional decor with minimalistic modern amenities, and tropical gardens, providing a sense of calm amidst Bali’s vibrant energy.

Traditional Nasi Goreng Ayam

After settling in and adjusting to the time zone, we opted for an early dinner at the resort’s beautiful outdoor restaurant. We savored Nasi Goreng Ayam, an Indonesian fried rice dish, perfectly spiced and comforting—the ideal way to begin our Bali experience. This first day laid a restful and flavorful foundation for the adventures ahead in Ubud, perfectly blending relaxation with local culture and tastes. 



Tanha Lot, the floating temple

October 2, 2025: We started early in Ubud, energized by a hearty breakfast and ready to explore Bali's rich cultural tapestry. Our first stop was Tanah Lot Temple, an iconic sea temple perched on a large rock formation surrounded by the Indian Ocean waves. Tanah Lot Temple stands as one of Bali’s most revered sea temples with origins in the 16th century, founded by Dang Hyang Nirartha, a priest considered pivotal in spreading Hinduism in Bali. Legend holds that Nirartha meditated on the offshore rock, inspiring the temple's creation to honor the sea gods and protect the island from evil spirits. Over centuries, this temple has endured erosion and natural wear but remains a striking symbol of Balinese spirituality, often enveloped in mist and waves that crash dramatically against its rocky base. The temple’s four-tiered Meru shrines represent the layered cosmos in Balinese Hindu belief, symbolizing the union between heaven and earth. 

 
Welcoming us to Tanha Lot

 
Intricate carvings at Tanha Lot



 
A morning visit is a great way to beat the crowd at Tahna lot

Arriving early allowed us to witness a sacred religious ceremony—a serene and profound experience as the locals performed offerings and prayers. Witnessing the indigenous religious ceremony here gave an intimate glimpse into Bali’s living spiritual traditions.

 
Indigenous religious ceremony at Tanha Lot

Our next stop was the Batu Bolong Temple, located just a short distance from Tanah Lot. Batu Bolong Temple, meaning “hollow rock,” dates back to the same era and is linked historically to Tanah Lot as part of the sea temples' protective chain guarding Bali’s shores. This temple sits atop a rocky outcrop punctuated by a natural sea arch and showcases traditional Balinese stone carvings and shrines dedicated to sea deities. It remains a serene site less frequented by tourists, valued for meditation and its panoramic ocean views. Entry inside the main temple is only permitted for worshipers. 




 
Batu Bolong Temple perched on a sea arch

The scorching sun drained us by then and we fueled up with an enormous tender coconut. Energized, we headed for Taman Ayun Temple, our subsequent stop. Taman Ayun Temple, built in 1634 by the royal family of Mengwi kingdom, also symbolized spiritual protection but served as a majestic family temple and governmental seat. Its name means “beautiful garden,” fittingly surrounded by a moat that adds a reflective tranquility. The temple’s multiple Meru shrines, gateways, and courtyards exemplify classic Balinese temple architecture designed to connect the material world to the divine. The temple also hosts important Hindu ceremonies and festivals, making it a vibrant religious hub.


 




 

 
The majestic Taman Ayun Temple

After the regal tranquility of Pura Taman Ayun, we dove into the vibrant emerald world of the Sacred Monkey Forest. Stepping beneath the dense canopy felt like entering a different realm altogether, filled with the earthy scent of jungle life. The highlight was encountering the long-tailed macaques. Far from just mischievous, many were surprisingly cute, and some even seemed enthusiastic about photography, pausing to strike poses for the camera. Beyond the charm, the forest holds deep significance. It is the sacred home to three ancient temples, including Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal. The monkeys are revered as protectors of these holy grounds, making the forest a crucial intersection of nature, culture, and Hindu spirituality. It was an unforgettable immersion into Bali's living reverence for the wild.





 


 

 

 
The emerald world of the Sacred Monkey Forest

Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal

Our last destination was to explore the central square in Ubud that houses several attractions. Pura Taman Kemuda Saraswati, located in central Ubud, captivated us with its exquisite lotus pond and detailed stone carvings depicting the Hindu goddess Saraswati. This temple is renowned for its beautiful water gardens and nightly traditional dance performances. The delicate carvings and serene water features make it a peaceful cultural gem.

The magnificent Ubud palace

Our tour continued to Ubud Palace, the historic royal residence nestled in the heart of Ubud town. The palace grounds feature ornate pavilions, statues, and traditional Balinese architecture. It provides insight into Bali’s royal heritage and is often a venue for mesmerizing cultural dance shows.

Ubud Palace, known as Puri Saren Agung, is the former residence of the Ubud royal family. Dating back to the early 20th century, the palace stands as a cultural heart of Ubud. It consists of intricately carved wooden pavilions, royal gardens, and courtyards where traditional dances and ceremonies are performed regularly, preserving Bali’s intangible cultural heritage. The palace architecture reflects a fusion of Hindu-Javanese styles and Balinese artistry, representing the kingdom’s historical ties to both religion and arts.

 

 

 
Intricate carvings of Ubud palace

Adjacent to the palace, the Ubud Art Market buzzed with vibrant energy. The market offered an array of handcrafted goods, textiles, paintings, and souvenirs. The colorful stalls filled with artistic treasures reflected Bali’s rich artistic traditions and were a delight to explore.

The square housing Ubud palace and art market

The day in Ubud took us through a beautiful blend of spiritual devotion, royal history, and cultural immersion, perfectly introducing us to Bali's deep-rooted heritage and natural beauty.

October 3, 2025: Our second day in Ubud led us deep into East Bali, where we delved into the island’s core spiritual and natural treasures. Our journey began at Besakih Great Temple, known as Bali’s “Mother Temple,” perched nearly 1,000 meters above sea level on the southern slopes of majestic Mount Agung. Once we reached the parking lot, we received our tickets along with a traditional sarong and a knowledgeable local guide. A charming battery car then whisked us away to the base of the majestic Besakih Temple. From there, an iconic flight of steps, steep and sacred, beckoned us upward. As we ascended, the air was filled with the scent of incense, and glimpses of the sprawling Balinese landscape unfurled around us, making the journey to the temple not just a climb, but a serene pilgrimage. 

The majestic entrance to the temple complex


Magnificent Besakih temple

And the mandatory couple pose!

With a history spanning over a millennium, Besakih’s roots trace to prehistoric megalithic structures, later embraced and expanded by Hindu influence starting around the 13th century. The temple complex’s 23 individual temples, arranged on six terraces, symbolize the Balinese Hindu concept of the cosmos—merging the earthly and spiritual realms. Historically, Besakih was the religious center for the Gelgel kingdom (15th century) and continues as the focal point for important ceremonies like the Eka Dasa Rudra purification ritual, a centuries-old rite seeking cosmic harmony. Architecturally, it features elaborately carved stone gateways (Candi Bentar), monumental Meru tiered shrines (representative of Mount Meru, the abode of gods), and intricate stone reliefs embodying mythological narratives. Its survival through turbulent natural disasters, including lava flows from Agung’s eruptions, highlights the temple’s sanctity and sacred resilience.





 
Glimpses of the temple



 
Incense, color, and ancient tradition in motion

After the sacred morning visit, we journeyed to the serene Tirta Gangga Water Garden. The Water Garden was established in 1948 by the last King of Karangasem as a royal palace and a symbol of Balinese spiritual and artistic ideals. It is a masterpiece of traditional Balinese landscape architecture, blending water elements like tiered fountains, pools, and ponds filled with koi fish with lush tropical gardens and stone statues of Hindu deities. The name “Tirta Gangga,” meaning “water from the Ganges,” underscores the garden’s role as a spiritual cleansing site invoking the sacredness of the holy river in Hinduism. Its design aims to harmonize natural beauty with spiritual purity, creating a tranquil sanctuary that reflects the Balinese reverence for water as a life-giving and purifying force.


  

 
The beautiful Water Garden

It was mid-day, and we were hungry as hell! Lunch at a local warung near Tirta Gangga offered authentic Balinese flavors, a welcome pause amid our spiritual journey. Re-energized, our final destination was the revered Lempuyang Temple, one of Bali’s oldest and most venerated temples, is situated at a high elevation on Mount Lempuyang. It is a key part of Bali’s “six sanctuaries of the world,” believed to protect the island from evil forces. The temple’s architecture reflects ancient Balinese Hindu design, featuring ornate gateways, shrines, and steps leading pilgrims up to the summit. The temple’s “Gate of Heaven” is famed for its split gate framing panoramic views of Mount Agung, symbolizing the passage from the realm of mortals to the divine. The temple is devoted to Hyang Giri, the mountain deity, and is an important pilgrimage site especially during Balinese religious festivals. 


 
The Lempuyang Temple

Visitors often endure long waits to capture the iconic photo at the gate, a testament to the site’s spiritual and visual allure. And we were no exception! The sunset shoot at the Gate of Heaven provided breathtaking golden hues and panoramic vistas which was well worth the wait.


 
The most iconic photo in Bali!

As we retired for the day, this voyage to the Eastern part of Bali led us to a profound immersion in Bali’s sacred heritage, showcasing architectural marvels, spiritual landscapes, and serene beauty.

October 4, 2025: Our last day in Ubud was intended to be more relaxed, allowing us to connect deeply with Bali’s iconic natural landscapes and ancient cultural practices. We began early with a visit to the Jatiluwih Rice Terrace, a UNESCO World Heritage site that stretches over 600 hectares in Bali’s Tabanan regency. Jatiluwih perfectly showcases the ancient subak irrigation system, a cooperative water management technique developed over a thousand years ago, which balances agricultural productivity with spiritual and community harmony.

Jatiluiwah, it is!

Stepping into Jatiluwih early morning is like entering a lush emerald dream. The air is crisp and cool, touched by the gentle mountain breeze from Mount Batukaru. The scent of damp earth mingles with the faint aroma of growing rice plants—fresh, green, and vibrant. The terraces roll out in undulating waves of perfect geometry, bright green against dark fertile soil, reflecting centuries of care and tradition. Walking along the narrow mud paths winding amidst the towering paddies, you hear the soft rustle of rice stalks swaying in the wind like a calming ocean of green. Nearby, water trickles gently through the ancient subak irrigation channels, each stone and earthen canal carved meticulously to guide life-giving water to every terrace. The rhythmic murmur of flowing water blends harmoniously with the occasional distant calls of tropical birds—a symphony of nature and nurture. The visual panorama is breathtaking: tier upon tier of rice paddies cascade down the hillsides as far as the eye can see. 



The lush rice terrace

As you continue, vivid bursts of tropical flowers along pathways add splashes of color—deep reds, radiant yellows, and fiery oranges—contrasting vividly with the endless green. The taste of fresh coconut water or local fruit bought from small stands along the trails refreshes and connects the senses further. Jatiluwih’s essence lies in its embodiment of Bali’s philosophy of Tri Hita Karana—the trinity of harmony among people, nature, and the spiritual world. The rice terraces are more than agricultural feats; they are a cooperative masterpiece, where farmers share water and work together, maintaining balance and reciprocal respect for the environment. The practice of subak continues to sustain not just the land but Bali’s cultural identity.

And a dash of color!

Our next stop was the iconic Ulun Danu Beratan Temple, situated on the tranquil shores of Lake Beratan. It was established around 1633 AD during the reign of King I Gusti Agung Putu of the Mengwi dynasty. The temple was dedicated to Dewi Danu, the goddess of lakes, rivers, and water, reflecting the vital role water plays in agriculture and daily life throughout Bali. Ulun Danu Beratan serves as a pivotal spiritual site connected closely to the Balinese subak irrigation system. The temple complex comprises several shrines and pagodas, symbolizing the sacred Mount Meru and representing the Hindu trinity of Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva. The architecture beautifully fuses Hindu and Buddhist elements, enhanced by the cool mountain climate and lake waters that create an ethereal, almost mystical atmosphere. The temple’s distinctive multi-tiered Meru shrines appear to float on the serene lake surface, surrounded by misty mountains—a harmonious blend of spirituality and natural beauty.




Ulun Danu Beteran

Before concluding our day, we paused at the Wanagiri Hidden Hills, a stunning viewpoint offering sweeping panoramas of Bali’s lush green hills and valleys and several Instagram-famous photo-stop. The expansive view of layered forests and meandering valleys was a fitting final embrace of Bali’s serene and timeless landscape.

 Wanagiri vistas! 

As we neared a reflective closure to our Ubud stay, the blend of cultural heritage, natural wonders, and peaceful moments etched everlasting memories in our hear.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The Unspoken Beauty of Doodhpatri

A Love Letter to Dal Lake