Land of the Dawn-Lit Mountains: From Tawang’s Heights to the Serenity of Bomdila (Part 3)
October 23, 2018: As we bid farewell to Tawang and began our descent toward Bomdila, the mountains decided to show us their "other" face. While our journey up had been a thrilling battle with mists and shadows, the return trip was bathed in an almost surreal brilliance.
Sela Pass: A Transformation in Gold and Blue
Reaching Sela Pass for the second time felt like visiting a brand-new destination. Gone were the "flocks of cloud" and the heavy veil of mist. Under a bright, shining sun, the pass was a different wonder altogether. The Sela Lake (Tso Lhamo), which had been a ghostly silhouette on our way up, was now a dazzling expanse of mesmerizing, bright blue water. The clarity of the high-altitude air made the surrounding snow-capped peaks look sharp enough to cut the sky. The reflection of the sun on the water was so intense it looked like scattered diamonds. We spent a long time here, simply absorbing the silence and the vibrant colors that only the Himalayan sun can reveal.
Bomdila: A Stay in the Heart of Spirit
To conclude our journey with a "different feel," we chose to stay at the Bomdila Monastery Guest House. It turned out to be one of the most soulful decisions of our trip. Staying within the monastery premises allowed us to bypass the typical "tourist" experience. The guest house was simple, clean, and infused with a profound sense of quietude. We woke up not to the sound of traffic, but to the low hum of morning prayers and the smell of fresh incense. One of the most heartwarming sights was watching the young lama children playing on the monastery grounds. Dressed in their miniature maroon robes, their laughter echoed through the courtyards as they ran between the prayer wheels. It was a beautiful reminder that these grand spiritual centers are also living, breathing homes filled with childhood innocence and joy.
We visited the Upper Gompa (GRL Monastery), which is the centerpiece of Bomdila’s spiritual life. The intricate woodwork, the massive statues of Buddha, and the colorful murals were mesmerizing. As the sun set, the monks began their evening rituals; the vibration of the drums and the flickering butter lamps created an atmosphere so thick with spirituality that it felt like time had stopped.
We also visited the Lower Gompa, located at the end of the bazaar. This monastery felt like a hidden sanctuary of old-world charm. With its traditional Tibetan architecture and a large prayer hall, it offered a more intimate, quiet space for reflection. The peaceful energy here, tucked away from the main bustle, was the perfect complement to the grandeur of the Upper Gompa.
The Descent – From the Clouds back to the Plains
October 24, 2018: The final day of our journey was one of long winding roads and quiet reflection. As we began the descent from the heights of Bomdila, the air gradually grew warmer and thicker, a physical reminder that our time in the "Land of the Dawn-Lit Mountains" was drawing to a close. The drive from the hills of Arunachal toward Guwahati Airport is a dramatic transition in geography. We watched the rugged, pine-covered slopes slowly dissolve into the lush, tropical greenery of the Assam plains. Passing through the foothills, the landscape opened up into vast stretches of paddy fields and tea estates, shimmering under the bright afternoon sun. For Soumitra and me, this drive was a time to scroll through our photos—each one a vibrant memory of a monastery, a mountain pass, or a hidden valley.
Arunachal Pradesh had been a dream on our bucket list for years and experiencing it together was more rewarding than we could have imagined. As we reached the Guwahati Airport and prepared for our flight home, we took one last look toward the distant northern horizon. The "flocks of cloud" were now far behind us, but the peace of the valleys and the hospitality of the Monpa people would remain with us long after we landed. The mountains had once again worked their magic, and as the plane took off, we were already quietly wondering: Where will the next Puja take us?
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