Land of the Dawn-Lit Mountains: An Odyssey to Tawang and the Frozen Frontier (Part 2)
From Valley to Peak: Traversing the Legendary Sela Pass to Tawang
Leaving the dramatic heights of Sela behind, the road eventually began its long, winding descent. The landscape softened once more as we moved toward the valley, though the scale of the mountains remained humbling. It was a long, grueling day on the road, testing both the vehicle and our endurance. Just before reaching Tawang, we made a stop at the magnificent Jang Falls, also known as Nuranang Falls. Plunging from a staggering height of about 100 meters, this waterfall is a force of nature that commands your full attention. The water, originating from the northern slopes of the Sela Pass, crashes down in two powerful tiers into the Tawang River below, creating a permanent shroud of mist and, if you’re lucky with the sunlight, vibrant rainbows. The falls carry a poignant piece of history, named after a local Monpa girl, Nura, who heroically assisted Indian soldiers during the 1962 war. Descending the steps to the base of the falls, we felt the cool spray on our faces and the literal vibration of the ground from the sheer volume of water. It was a moment of raw, cinematic beauty—so much so that it famously served as a backdrop for the Bollywood film Koyla. Standing there, with the thunderous roar echoing through the lush green valley, it felt like the perfect, refreshing prelude to our arrival in Tawang.
We finally pulled into Tawang as the evening shadows deepened. We were weary to our bones, but the elation of finally reaching this long-dreamed-of destination was a better remedy than any rest. After a quick check-in at our hotel, we retired for the night, the mountain silence finally replacing the hum of the engine.
The Golden Heights – A Spiritual & Heroic Tour of Tawang
The "Chosen One by the Horse." That is the literal meaning of Tawang, and walking through the Kakaling (the grand entrance gate), we felt the weight of four centuries of history. Founded in 1680-81 by Merak Lama Lodre Gyatso at the request of the 5th Dalai Lama, this is the largest monastery in India and the second largest in the world. It looks less like a single building and more like a medieval village, housing over 400 monks. Inside the assembly hall of the main temple (Dukhang), we were greeted by a breathtaking 18-foot-tall, gilded Buddha statue. The walls are a riot of color, covered in intricate mandala murals and thangkas. The air was thick with the scent of butter lamps and the rhythmic chanting of young monks, a sound that seemed to vibrate in our very chests. As history buffs, we were fascinated by the monastery’s library, which houses ancient scriptures, including the Gold-lettered Kangyur. It’s a repository of wisdom that has survived centuries of Himalayan winters.
Weather in the mountains changes abruptly. The bright morning sun was suddenly veiled by grey mists, and we were greeted by a short spell of shower. We ducked for cover, watching the raindrops darken the ancient stones, but the rain soon ceased as quickly as it had arrived. As the air cleared, it left behind a sight that was even more breathtaking than before: the moisture had blanketed the distant mountain range with white flocks of cloud. These ethereal, cotton-like clusters clung to the sapphire peaks, moving slowly like a silent herd across the horizon. It felt as if the mountains had been draped in fresh, white wool, adding a layer of mystery and serenity to an already divine landscape. We wrapped up our monastery visit and headed towards the next stop.
Dominating the skyline of Tawang is the towering Giant Buddha Statue. We spent some time here simply sitting on the steps. The statue is surrounded by prayer wheels and offers a 360-degree view of the entire Tawang valley. Looking down at the town from this height, we could see the colourful houses clustered together, framed by the stark, majestic peaks we had traversed the day before.
The Giant Buddha
In the afternoon, we transitioned from spiritual peace to heroic history at the Tawang War Memorial. Designed as a 40-foot-high multi-hued stupa, this memorial is a poignant tribute to the 2,420 Indian soldiers who made the supreme sacrifice during the 1962 Sino-Indian War. The memorial is built in the local Monpa architectural style, blending military discipline with Buddhist serenity. Walking past the granite plaques etched with the names of the martyrs, we felt a deep sense of gratitude. The museum inside houses maps, photographs, and artifacts from the war, providing a sobering context to the very roads we had been travelling. It made us realize that the beauty of Arunachal is guarded by the bravest of hearts.
We wrapped up our day with a stroll through the Tawang Craft Centre. Here, we witnessed the incredible skill of the Monpa artisans. We watched women weaving exquisite woollen carpets with traditional motifs and saw craftsmen carving wooden masks used in the Cham dances. We were particularly fascinated by the handmade paper (Mon Shugu) made from the bark of the local Shugheng tree—a tradition that has lasted for a thousand years. As the sun began to dip below the horizon, we wandered through the local market, picking up some local walnuts and handmade prayer flags. The evening chill set in, and we headed back to our hotel, our hearts full.
The Edge of the World – Bum La Pass and the Surreal Madhuri Lake
October 23, 2018: Today we woke up with a sense of quiet anticipation. This was the day we would stand at the very edge of the country. Since this trip was our annual Durga Puja mountain pilgrimage, there was a special kind of reverence in the air. We started early, as the journey to the Indo-China border is as much about the "non-roads" as it is about the destination. The 37 km drive from Tawang to Bum La is not for the faint-hearted. We swapped our vehicle for a local Tawang-registered SUV, essential for navigating the steep, rocky terrain. As we climbed, the lush greenery gave way to a stark, alpine landscape. The route is dotted with high-altitude glacial lakes, each more sapphire-blue than the last. We passed the serene Pankang Teng Tso and the mirror-like Nagula Lake, where the water was so still it perfectly reflected the jagged, snow-dusted peaks. The air grew thinner and colder, and the sight of yaks with their thick, shaggy coats grazing in the frost reminded us just how far we had come from the plains of Kolkata.
Reaching Bum La Pass at 15,200 feet is a moment that stays with you. This is the Line of Actual Control (LAC) between India and China—a place of immense strategic importance and heavy history. Our guide cum driver pointed out the spots where the fierce Battle of Bum La was fought during the 1962 Sino-Indian War. We stood in silence near the memorial of Subedar Joginder Singh, who was awarded the Param Vir Chakra for his legendary bravery against overwhelming odds. We participated in a moving local tradition at the "Heap of Stones." It is a symbolic monument of peace where visitors place a pebble as a tribute to the Himalayas and a prayer for tranquility on the border. Adding our stones to the pile, Soumitra and I felt a profound connection to the land and the soldiers who guard it. The Indian Army personnel stationed here are the personification of warmth in a frozen landscape. They briefed us on the border, showed us the Chinese side through binoculars, and even treated us to steaming cups of tea and biscuits in their hut. Standing there, just feet away from the border, the feeling of nationalism was palpable.
The Bumla Pass
On our way back, we diverted toward Sangetsar Tso, famously known as Madhuri Lake. Its beauty is haunting and unlike anything else in the Himalayas. The lake was formed during a massive earthquake in 1971. What was once a lush meadow with a pine forest was suddenly submerged when the valley was blocked by falling rocks and debris. Today, dozens of dead cedar tree trunks rise vertically out of the emerald-colored water, looking like ghostly sentinels. The contrast of these skeletal trees against the clear water and the surrounding snow-capped mountains creates a scene that feels almost extraterrestrial. The lake earned its popular nickname after the Bollywood movie Koyla was shot here. Our driver took great pride in pointing out exactly where Madhuri Dixit danced, a fun bit of pop culture in the middle of such raw wilderness.
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