Journey to Punakha and the Majestic Dzong
October 12, 2019: Our last leg of the journey took us to the subtropical warmth of Punakha, the ancient capital of Bhutan. Unlike the higher, cooler altitudes of Thimphu, the Punakha town thrives in a milder climate, nestled in its fertile valley at about 1,200 meters above sea level. This location makes it Bhutan’s primary producer of rice, with lush paddy fields lining the banks of the merging rivers. The town itself is scattered and serene, connected to the great Dzong by the iconic, flag-draped Punakha Suspension Bridge arching over the swift waters.
The sight of the Pungtang Dechen Phortang Dzong, or simply Punakha Dzong, is simply magnificent. Strategically positioned at the confluence of the Mo Chhu (Mother River) and the Po Chhu (Father River), these waters join to form the Puna Tsang Chhu, which ultimately flows into the mighty Brahmaputra. It’s a location of immense spiritual and strategic significance.
Legend imbues this site with ancient prophecy. It is said that Guru Rinpoche foretold its creation some 800 years ago, predicting a person named Namgyal would arrive at a hill shaped like an elephant. Indeed, Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal found the peak resembled an elephant's trunk and chose this exact spot. Another captivating tale involves the architect, Zowe Palep, who reportedly received the entire blueprint of the Dzong in a dream, allowing him to construct the massive structure without ever putting plans to paper—a testament to faith and vision!
Punakha Dzong: The most impressive fortress in Bhutan As the second largest and second oldest Dzong in Bhutan, it carries an incredible weight of history. It serves as the winter residence for the Je Khenpo (chief abbot) and the central monastic body. Within its imposing walls reside some of the most sacred relics of the Drukpa Kagyu School of Buddhism, including the mortal remains of both Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal and Terton Pema Lingpa, Bhutan’s great treasure discoverer. Until the capital shifted to Thimphu in 1955, this majestic structure was the heart of the nation, serving as the seat of government.
Crossing the long wooden bridge—a feat of engineering in itself—we stepped into a world of painted wood, towering white walls, and serene courtyards. Adding to the visual splendor, the area surrounding the Dzong bursts into shades of purple when the Jacaranda trees come into bloom, which typically happens in early Spring (around March/April). These beautiful lilac blossoms make the already picturesque scene even more breathtaking. Later in the year, this impressive locale hosts the highly popular Punakha Tshechu Festival, drawing crowds of locals and tourists eager to witness the vibrant masked dances. Standing there, dwarfed by its grandeur against the backdrop of purple and green, one truly felt connected to the deep currents of Bhutanese history and devotion.
With the day’s explorations complete, we look forward to settling in for the night. Tonight, our nest will be the Damchen Resort, offering us comfort as we reflect on the majesty of Punakha.
Thimphu: Capital Culture and Living Heritage
October 13, 2019: A hearty breakfast at Damchen Resort signaled the start of our journey towards the capital, Thimphu. Before leaving the Punakha valley, however, we made a special pilgrimage to a site famous for its unique spiritual significance: Chimi Lhakhang.
The Chimi Lhakhang, nestled on a small hill near the village of Lobesa, is deeply entwined with the colorful legends of Saint Drukpa Kinley, affectionately known as the Divine Madman. Constructed in 1499 by the 14th Drukpa hierarch, Ngawang Choegyel, this monastery is a testament to Drukpa Kinley’s unorthodox teaching methods—methods that often employed humor, song, and behavior with shocking, yet profound, sexual overtones brought from Tibet. Legend holds that the demon of Dochu-La was imprisoned in a nearby rock by the saint’s magic thunderbolt of wisdom. The temple is famously known as the Temple of Fertility. Pilgrims, not just from Bhutan but from as far as Japan and the United States, visit seeking special blessings to conceive children. These blessings are bestowed in a truly unique manner: by being gently struck on the head with a ten-inch wooden or ivory Phallus—a potent symbol said to ward off evil spirits. After a pleasant, short 20-minute walk across vibrant rice fields from the roadhead, we saw the square-shaped Lhakhang crowned with a golden spire. Its exterior is adorned with slate carvings of Buddhist saints, and near the entrance, a small Chorten marks where the Lama subdued the demon. Post-blessing and farewell to Punakha, the scenic drive resumed, eventually bringing us to the hustle and bustle of Thimphu.
Thimphu stands as a unique capital city—one of the very few in the world without a single traffic light. Life here moves at a noticeably calmer pace than in other major world cities. The architecture maintains a striking blend of tradition and modernity; even new government buildings adhere to traditional Bhutanese styles featuring intricate woodwork and sloping roofs. The city is built in a relatively broad valley along the Wang Chhu River, giving it an open, airy feeling, yet it is framed by steep hillsides dotted with monasteries and communication towers. It serves as the clear political, religious, and commercial hub of the nation.
Upon arrival, our first stop was Simtokha Dzong, strategically positioned on the road between Thimphu and Paro. Built in 1629 by the visionary Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, it stands as one of Bhutan’s oldest fortresses, holding deep historical significance as one of the first major structures he erected. While its imposing structure speaks of its defensive past, today, the Dzong serves a vital cultural role, housing a specialized monastic school dedicated to the intensive study of Buddhist philosophy. Visiting Simtokha offered a serene glimpse into centuries-old scholarship, preserving this historical landmark as a living center for learning as we begin our exploration in the Thimphu region.
Simtokha Dzong: The oldest one!
Our next stop was the National Institute for Zorig Chusum. This institute is the custodian of Bhutan’s artistic soul, dedicated to preserving the 13 Traditional Arts and Crafts introduced centuries ago, largely credited to Terton Pema Lingpa. These crafts—painting, embroidery, sculpting, wood carving, and calligraphy—represent the specialized knowledge passed down through generations. Established in 1971 under the patronage of the Royal Government, the Institute ensures this priceless heritage is protected by training the nation’s youth. It was fascinating to watch the students diligently practicing these ancient skills.
Next, we visited the National Post Office on Chang Lam. This central facility is surprisingly efficient and modern, boasting a dedicated philatelic department. It offers a fun opportunity to create a souvenir: visitors can have their pictures taken to print personalized Bhutanese stamps for postcards, a delightful and low-cost keepsake featuring exquisite designs of royalty, birds, and ornamental art.
With the sightseeing complete, we checked into our accommodation for the next two nights. We will be staying at Namseling Boutique for a comfortable rest before exploring more of Thimphu tomorrow.
October 14, 2019: We set out early to explore the highlights of Thimphu, the dynamic capital city. Our first destination was the breathtaking Kuensel Phodrang, often called the Buddha Point. Perched atop a hill overlooking the sprawling city, this site is home to the world’s largest sitting Buddha statue, standing an imposing 167 feet high. The word Kuensel translates to "everything is clear," a fitting name as the vantage point offers unparalleled, panoramic views of the Thimphu Valley. The massive statue itself is constructed of bronze and adorned with semi-precious stones, having been cast in pieces in China and assembled on site. The steep, winding road up provided a spectacular prelude; journalists have aptly described the glittering city lights against the valley darkness as seeing "an oasis of light in the desert of darkness."
The breathtaking Kuensel Phodrang
Our next significant stop was the National Memorial Chorten. Erected by the Third King, H.M. Jigme Dorji Wangchuck—the "father of modern Bhutan"—this chorten was built to carry the message of world peace and prosperity, fulfilling a wish he couldn't complete in his lifetime. Consecrated in 1974, it is known as the most visible religious landmark in the capital. While it contains a photograph of the late King, the Chorten is intended to represent "the mind of Buddha." Its design is distinctly Tibetan, with a rounded, outwards-flaring body that gives it a vase-like appearance. The interior is rich with tantric deity paintings, reflecting deep Buddhist insight.
National Memorial Chorten
Next, we journeyed to Changangkha Lhakhang, the oldest temple in Thimphu, situated on a ridge overlooking the city near Mohitang. This early medieval temple was constructed in the 12th century by Lama Phajo Drukgom Zhigpo, the very founder of the Drukpa Kagyu School of Buddhism. The central deity here is a large statue of Chenrizig, the eleven-headed, thousand-armed manifestation of Avalokiteshvara. We noted the unusually large prayer books and the courtyard that offers another excellent perspective of the capital below.
From here, we moved to the imposing Tashichho Dzong, the "fortress of glorious religion," situated on the western bank of the Wang Chu River. This complex has historically been the seat of Bhutan’s government. Though the original structure dates back to 1216, the current edifice was erected in 1641 and substantially rebuilt in the 1960s. Today, it houses the Throne Room and the King's Secretariat, along with the Central Monk Body. Its impressive, two-striped quadrangle structure, flanked by three-storied towers on each of its four corners, stands as a powerful symbol of the merging of spiritual and secular authority, serving as the seat of the Royal Government since 1952.
The last stop of our tour was to visit the Zilukha Nunnery, officially known as Drubthob Goemba. Perched on the eastern slopes overlooking the city, this significant monastic institution houses a vibrant community of Buddhist nuns dedicated to their religious studies and practice. It offers an important view into the lives of female monastics in Bhutan, who engage in rigorous study of the scriptures and meditation in the Drukpa Kagyu tradition. The atmosphere here is one of quiet devotion and focused learning, providing a spiritual contrast to the grander, administrative functions housed in the nearby Dzongs.
As the sun began to set on what was our last evening in Bhutan, we took the opportunity to stroll through the main city square, lined with shops, restaurants, and cafes. It was the perfect setting for some last-minute souvenir shopping, a final chance to absorb the gentle energy of this unique kingdom.
Farewell to the Land of the Thunder Dragon
October 15, 2019: Today marked our final transit day as we were driven back to Phuentsholing. At this border town, we bid a fond farewell to our Bhutanese guides and vehicle, transferring to a separate car for our homeward journey onward to NJP (New Jalpaiguri). Oh! Did I say that all guides and drivers associated with tourism impeccably wore traditional Bhutanese attire, the Gho for men and the Kira for women, a constant, dignified reminder of the nation’s commitment to its heritage.
The memories of the pristine environment, the genuine warmth of the people, the scent of incense at ancient lhakhangs, and the imposing grandeur of the Dzongs will remain indelible. Thank you, Bhutan, for this unforgettable immersion into the last great Himalayan Kingdom. Until we meet again when we sail out for a new destination, Tashi Delek!
Logistical Notes for Future Travelers to Bhutan
Time Difference: Bhutan operates on Bhutan Time (BTT), which is 30 minutes ahead of Indian Standard Time (IST).
Border Crossing & Travel Convenience: We traveled from Kolkata via train to NJP (New Jalpaiguri) and then took a car to the border at Phuentsholing. Taking a train directly to Hashimara station is generally considered a more convenient and slightly shorter road connection to Phuentsholing.
Flight Option (Paro): The swifter, though considerably costlier, option is to fly directly into Paro International Airport (PBH).
Currency Exchange (October 2019 Approximation): During our visit in October 2019, the approximate exchange rate was about ₹1 INR = Nu. 1.80 - 1.90. The local currency is the Bhutanese Ngultrum (Nu.), which is pegged to the Indian Rupee (INR). Indian currency (INR) is widely accepted for most transactions within Bhutan.
Connectivity & SIM Cards: Tourists usually rely on purchasing a local Bhutan SIM card like TashiCell upon arrival if connectivity is essential, though connectivity can be spotty outside major towns like Thimphu and Paro.
Guide Requirement & Permits: Hiring a local guide is mandatory for most tourists entering Bhutan (outside of Indian passport holders visiting specific border zones like Phuentsholing). All organized tours must include a licensed guide and pre-booked accommodation and transport. Indian nationals require a special entry permit to travel beyond the immediate border town of Phuentsholing into the rest of the country. This permit is typically processed upon arrival at the entry point (like Phuentsholing or the airport) after presenting your valid Indian Passport or Voter ID card and confirming your itinerary with your tour operator.
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