Bhutan: The Land of Thunder Dragon (Part 2)
The Road East: Majestic Passes and Subdued Spirits
October 9: Our journey today took us eastward from Paro, leaving the familiar valley behind for the heart of Central Bhutan. After an early breakfast, we were back on the road, heading towards Trongsa. The drive itself was set to be a highlight as we prepared to cross the famous Dochula Pass. The ascent to Dochula was gradual, bringing us to an altitude of about 3,100 meters. As planned, we stopped for our traditional mid-morning tea break. Dochula Pass, situated just 30 kilometers from Thimphu on the road connecting the capital to Punakha, offers, on a clear day, one of the most spectacular panoramic views of the majestic Eastern Himalayan Ranges. Sipping a hot cup of coffee, we gazed out at the snow-capped giants that lined the horizon—a truly serene experience contrasting with the hustle of the journey. The view was overwhelmingly crisp, the distant peaks appearing almost close enough to touch, their sheer scale humbling against the blue sky. And that's it suddenly got overcast. Weather in the mountains is truly unpredictable!
However, the most striking feature at Dochula is not just the mountains, but the 108 Druk Wangyal Chortens. These stupas, built to commemorate the selfless leadership and service of the Bhutanese Kings, stand as a beautiful tribute to the nation’s loyalty and appreciation. Each one is meticulously stacked, forming a spiraling crown on the pass. The cluster of white structures, each capped with gold, created a unique spiritual landmark against the vast mountain backdrop.
Continuing our drive eastward, the landscape evolved, becoming wilder as we left the main western corridor. A significant stop further along was the Chendebji Chorten. Located just two kilometers from the village of Chendebji, this large, whitewashed Buddhist Stupa is modeled after the famous Boudhanath Stupa in Kathmandu, Nepal. Its symmetry and imposing whitewash stood out vividly against the backdrop of dense greenery. Constructed in the 19th century by the Tibetan Lama Shinda, the chorten marks the spot where the Lama is said to have subdued an evil spirit. The eyes painted at the four cardinal points of the structure seemed to gaze out over the surrounding hills, silent witnesses to the spiritual power exerted there. These painted eyes, a traditional protective feature, gave the entire structure a watchful, benevolent appearance.
Finally, after a long but endlessly rewarding day of driving through evolving landscapes, we reached Trongsa. We checked into the Yangkhil Resort for the night, eager for the history that awaited us in this central Bhutanese hub the following day.
October 10: Our day began with an early visit to the formidable Trongsa Dzong, officially known as Cheokhor Rabdentse. This is arguably the largest and most impressive fortress complex in all of Bhutan. Perched dramatically on a cliff overlooking the deep gorge of the Mangde Chhu River, the Dzong’s scale is immense. Its history traces back to a temple built in 1543 by a Drukpa Lama. The sprawling, multi-level fortress seamlessly follows the ridge's topography, connected by a maze of courtyards and passageways. The external walls are colossal, giving it an undeniable sense of impregnability. As we navigated its complex interior, we moved through successive courtyards, connected by a dizzying array of passageways, narrow staircases, and intricate covered galleries. The sheer scale is overwhelming, a testament to the centuries of labor poured into its construction. Within its vast confines, 25 distinct temples and shrines are housed, the majority consecrated to principal deities of Tantric Buddhism, illustrating its enduring importance as the religious heart of the region. The Dzong’s strategic location meant it once controlled the main trade route between the eastern and western parts of the kingdom, a history powerfully reflected in its sheer defensive might and monumental presence.
After absorbing the grandeur of Trongsa, we continued our scenic drive towards the spiritual nucleus of Bumthang, a destination comprising four main valleys. Our first stop here was the historic Jakar Dzong, situated above Jakar village in the Chamkhar valley. Legend imbues this site with auspiciousness: during the construction of the original monastery, a white bird—a highly auspicious sign in Bhutanese culture—emerged from the structure and landed on the ground. The original structure was established in 1549 by the great-grandfather of Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, though the current, smaller edifice dates from refurbishment in 1683 after the original was damaged by the 1897 earthquake.
Jakar Dzong
Our final, deeply significant visits were to Bumthang’s ancient temples. We first explored Jambay Lhakhang. This temple is incredibly ancient, purportedly built by the Tibetan King Songsen Gampo in 659 AD. It was later blessed by Guru Rinpoche himself during his visit, who is credited with bringing Buddhism to Bhutan. It is believed that a natural lake lies beneath the temple where the Guru once sought refuge.
A short walk away brought us to the Kurjey Lhakhang Temple Complex. The legend here is vivid: Bumthang’s King Sendhu Raja was gravely ill, and upon being invited, Guru Rinpoche discovered the sickness was caused by malevolent local deities. The furious Guru chased these spirits into a cave, meditated there for three months, and upon emerging, subdued them, curing the King. Crucially, the Guru left behind the imprint of his body in the cave—the Kurjey—as a reminder to all evil beings. The complex features three major temples built across different centuries, and remarkably, it serves as the final resting place for the first three Kings of Bhutan. The cypress tree standing before the main temple is also linked to legend, said to have sprouted from Guru Rinpoche's walking staff.
After such a profound day steeped in history and legend, we retired for the evening, carrying the weighty spirituality of Bumthang with us.
October 11: Post-breakfast, we left Jakar, turning off the main east-west road onto a challenging gravel track that took us about 10 kilometers further east. Our drive out of Bumthang was immediately enchanting. As we began our journey through the Bumthang countryside, the road seemed to deliberately pierce through vast expanses of buckwheat fields. These fields, ripe and ready, were unexpectedly carpeted in vibrant orange-pinkish hues, stretching as far as the eye could see. We simply couldn't resist pulling over for an impromptu photo break; the scenery was too perfect a spectacle of high-altitude agriculture and natural color to simply drive past.
As we drove further, we delved into the deepest, most secluded corner of Bumthang: the Tang Valley. The Tang Valley, once we reached it, felt like stepping into a quiet, forgotten chapter of Bhutan. Unlike the bustling gateway towns, Tang is defined by its isolation and profound serenity. As the gravel road finally surrendered to flatter ground, the valley opened up, revealing its subtle beauty. The landscape here is softer, yet intensely green, dominated by the slow, meandering path of the Tang chhu River. Along its banks, the earth is cultivated into peaceful, ordered patches of farmland. These fields by the river are meticulously tended, perhaps showing barley or buckwheat, standing in sharp contrast to the rugged, looming mountains that cradle the valley on all sides. The air itself seems to hold the silence of ages, broken only by the gentle rush of the river. It is this undisturbed quietude—the sense that life here moves at a rhythm dictated by the seasons and ancient devotion, far from modern haste—that makes the Tang Valley an unparalleled sanctuary of peace.
We headed to the remote Ugyen Choling Palace. Located far to the east of Jakar, reaching it involved another roughly 30 Km journey, the last 20 Km being a rough, unpaved gravel road, followed by an hour's uphill ride. Built in the 17th century by noble Deb Tsokey Dorji, this palace is one of Bhutan’s least-visited national treasures. Though heavily damaged by the 1897 earthquake, it was carefully rebuilt in the early 1900s. Today, it functions as a museum, meticulously preserving the essence of 19th and 20th-century Bhutanese noble life across its three floors and central tower. We viewed recreated living quarters, ancient royal artifacts—including weapons and tools made from petrified yak dung (used for primitive gunpowder)—and a private collection of fine Bhutanese art belonging to the noble family. It was a unique glimpse into the lifestyle of Bhutan’s aristocracy before stepping back. However, the extensive exploration of the palace and the remote nature of the journey meant that our timeline became tight. Regrettably, due to this time crunch, we had to bypass an excursion to Kunzangdrak Goemba Monastery, meaning we missed a closer look at the site associated with Trenton Pema Lingpa.
We continued deeper into the valley to the Tang Rimpochen Lhakhang. This sacred structure is built right below a massive rock face, significant because this is where Guru Rinpoche is said to have meditated during his time in Bhutan. The temple derives its name, Tang Rimpochen (Impression of Tiger Stripes), from the distinct markings visible on the rocks behind the structure. Furthermore, a rock in front of the temple is reputed to bear the imprint of the Guru’s body alongside that of his consort—tangible reminders of their presence.
Next, we sought out a site of profound spiritual importance: the Burning Lake, or Membar Tsho. Located about a 15-minute trek off the main road into a narrow gorge carved by the Tangchu River, the area was immediately identifiable by the huge number of colorful prayer flags strung across the chasm. According to legend, Trenton Pema Lingpa had a vision of a great treasure at the bottom of the pool. When challenged by the local governor, Pema Lingpa declared he would enter the water with a lit butter lamp and would only emerge once he retrieved the treasure, with the lamp still burning. His success in emerging from the depths with both the treasure and the still-lit lamp gave the lake its evocative name. We were cautioned that due to its holiness, entering the water is considered sacrilegious.
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