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Land of the Dawn-Lit Mountains: A Passage Through Arunachal's Wild Heart (Part 1)

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The scent of shiuli flowers and the distant rhythm of the dhak —for Soumitra and me, the arrival of Durga Puja signals more than just the triumph of good over evil. It is the cue for our annual pilgrimage to the mountains. This tradition, fiercely guarded over the years, is our essential escape from the festive city rush, a time to trade the pandal lights for the vast, silent majesty of the high peaks. This year, the call was different, leading us far east to a landscape that has long held a magnetic pull on our collective wanderlust: Arunachal Pradesh. Known reverently as the 'Land of the Dawn-Lit Mountains', this remote frontier state is nestled at the edge of the Himalayas. For years, the allure of Arunachal Pradesh—its rumored raw beauty, profound tribal heritage, and daunting passes—kept it pinned to the top of our travel dreams. Finally, the dream was unfolding beneath our boots. Nameri – Where the Wild River Roars October 18, 2018: Our journey began with a flight from ...

Bhutan: The Land of Thunder Dragon (Part 3)

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Journey to Punakha and the Majestic Dzong October 12, 2019: Our last leg of the journey took us to the subtropical warmth of Punakha, the ancient capital of Bhutan. Unlike the higher, cooler altitudes of Thimphu, the Punakha town thrives in a milder climate, nestled in its fertile valley at about 1,200 meters above sea level. This location makes it Bhutan’s primary producer of rice, with lush paddy fields lining the banks of the merging rivers. The town itself is scattered and serene, connected to the great Dzong by the iconic, flag-draped Punakha Suspension Bridge arching over the swift waters. Punakha valley The sight of the Pungtang Dechen Phortang Dzong, or simply Punakha Dzong, is simply magnificent. Strategically positioned at the confluence of the Mo Chhu (Mother River) and the Po Chhu (Father River), these waters join to form the Puna Tsang Chhu, which ultimately flows into the mighty Brahmaputra. It’s a location of immense spiritual and strategic significance. Legend imbues t...

Bhutan: The Land of Thunder Dragon (Part 2)

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  The Road East: Majestic Passes and Subdued Spirits October 9: Our journey today took us eastward from Paro, leaving the familiar valley behind for the heart of Central Bhutan. After an early breakfast, we were back on the road, heading towards Trongsa. The drive itself was set to be a highlight as we prepared to cross the famous Dochula Pass. The ascent to Dochula was gradual, bringing us to an altitude of about 3,100 meters. As planned, we stopped for our traditional mid-morning tea break. Dochula Pass, situated just 30 kilometers from Thimphu on the road connecting the capital to Punakha, offers, on a clear day, one of the most spectacular panoramic views of the majestic Eastern Himalayan Ranges. Sipping a hot cup of coffee, we gazed out at the snow-capped giants that lined the horizon—a truly serene experience contrasting with the hustle of the journey. The view was overwhelmingly crisp, the distant peaks appearing almost close enough to touch, their sheer scale humbling again...